As a wine reviewer, it’s essential to go to tastings that give you a chance to check your points of reference. The recent Kemenys Penfolds Lunch was such an occasion: it’s all very well to write derogatory stuff about these fancy wines but you need to check that you’re on the right page first. The GTW Bordeaux tasting was a little more modest, since all the wines cost less than $100.
We’ve long argued that wine tasting, reviewing and judging are flawed disciplines. So we review wines over a couple of days, with and without food – does that make our scores more reliable? No. Wine judging is is subject to a handful of factors that have a major impact on our perception:
You get the idea. We can measure alcohol, sugar, tannin, acid, phenolics and chemicals in a wine with great accuracy, but that’s about the extent of objective assessment. The rest comes down to the individual’s ability to taste wine, and to find suitable words to describe the experience.
Woolworth’s plan for World Domination
We wrote our first piece on this subject HERE, and our second HERE, and if you care about what the WC duopoly is doing to the fresh food business in Australia, Supermarket monsters by Malcolm Knox is mandatory reading.
Now we read in SMH Business Day that ‘Supermarket and liquor giant Woolworths is in the final stages of a plan to crush rival online liquor retailers with a dramatic expansion of its Dan Murphy’s online business, which already has 46 per cent of the online liquor sales market in Australia.’
It comes around every year, on the first Wednesday of August. Sneaks around I should say: it’s a very low-key affair compared to the fanfare-and-drumroll launch of Penfolds Bin Reds and Icons. It’s indicative of the low-key approach chief winemaker Sue Hodder has brought to the job, in contrast to the high-profile Peter Gago.
Sue just gets on with the job, and it’s a huge job given that she and vineyard manager Alan Jenkins are looking after an area of vineyards that covers almost half of Coonawarra. More of that HERE.
Who Makes my Wine? The Mystery of Cow Bombie
The guys at Grapes and Lager were kind enough to send us an entertaining little video – The Mystery of Cow Bombie – which left us in no doubt that there was no such winery in Margaret River.
James Halliday announced the annual Wine Companion awards on Tuesday night this week, at an invitation-only ceremony in Melbourne. This is the prelude to the release of the 2015 Wine Companion due out on Friday August 1.
Six major awards were presented:
Halliday’s Scores compared to the Winefront’s
Halliday also announced his best wines, and Gary Walsh at the Winefront wrote a note on WF’s Facebook page that compares Halliday’s scores with some of the Winefront’s. I’ve said more than once that Halliday’s scores are consistently 3 – 6 points higher than the WF’s, which covers several brackets. That’s a serious issue in the 100 point system since you only have a range of around 10 points to work with (87 – 97):
‘You cannot criticize a man for going to work. You really cannot,’ says Celebrity Chef Marco Pierre White. ‘But you can criticize a man for choosing to go to work as a pimp and a whore,’ says a reader on Eater.
White became the brand ambassador for Knorr ‘Homestyle’ stocks in the US. ‘He is no stranger to Knorr (a division of mega-conglomerate Unilever), as he’s promoted the company’s boullion cubes in the UK since 2006.’ White claims to have used Knorr stock in his kitchens for 30 years and says: ‘It is my secret ingredient.’ MORE.
Marco Pierre White making love to a hindquarter (Source: www.eater.com).
The surprise is that more and more celebrity chefs are doing more of this and seem happy to trash their own brands in the process. They don’t seem to mind spruiking complete rubbish either. ‘We are excited to once again be supplying the MasterChef Australia pantry with the same great food customers will find in our stores,’ says Simon McDowell from Coles. Should we be excited too?
Compared to the more remote Great Southern, Margaret River is a bustling place. The town is substantial, and conveniently located half way between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. It’s about half an hour’s drive either way. There’s the highway or Caves Road, named after the magnificent limestone caves here.
Limestone is a feature often found in great wine areas, from Bordeaux to Coonawarra. It’s a little warmer here than in Bordeaux – 1600 degree-days vs 1500. Coonawarra is about the same as Bordeaux. Limestone plays a minor role in Margaret River’s vineyards, which sit on a ridge of ancient granite said to be 2,000 million years old. Most of the soils are granite gravel loams which are ideal for grape growing. Gravel also features in the soils of Bordeaux.
The Albany Highway is a good road, two lanes but lots of overtaking lanes. The scenery is easy on eyes: undulating green, lots of trees, rolling hills. Mount Barker is about 400 kms south of Perth. It’s a real country town where wine takes a back seat to sheep and cattle. Let me rephrase that: wine is almost invisible among the Elders rural supplies, the Mitre10, the butcher and the IGA.
Jason’s restaurant The Happy Bull is an oasis where good coffee is served, and good honest food. Steak is a specialty. Our temporary home is a historic homestead in Porongurup range, described as the oldest mountain range in the world, 20km east of Mount Barker. There are 3 wineries nearby: Xabregas, Mount Trio and Castle Rock, which takes its name from a huge boulder balancing on a tiny footprint. The view from the rock across the plain to the north is worth the 3.3km hike.
Our first night was freezing, and we ended up piling more and more wood on the fireplace and later, more and more blankets on top of the bed. It was 2 degrees the next morning, which saw us racing around and flapping our arms to get warm. We didn’t until we jumped into the car and got the engine warmed up.
We keep running into this issue, and we will show crass examples from time to time. The wine in question is Cape Mentelle Georgiana Sauvignon Blanc 2012, which sell for about $14 – $15. The wine gets 93 points from both James Halliday and Tyson Stelzer, so it really hits our sweet spot of well-priced wines with high scores.
What went wrong? Let’s make clear that we’re big fans of Cape Mentelle’s Trinders Cabernet Merlot and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc. We could not taste the Georgiana at the winery – they don’t offer their cheapest wines there, which is another story. We ended up buying a bottle (yes, they sell it for $17).