In the UK, new guidelines being proposed recommend reducing your consumption to 14 units a week. A single bottle of wine at 13.5% equates to 10.125 units of alcohol,’ Andrew Jefford at Decanter magazine tells us. He calls some of the advice of Britain’s Chief Medical officer toxic, and reminds us that she has written off the cardio-protective properties of red wine as ‘old wives’ tales’.
Many countries have published what their medical authorities consider safe drink limits:
‘Winemaking isn’t a matter of life or death – it’s much more important than that!’ Leo Buring
Leo Buring was a trained oenologist, a winemaker and viticulturist, wine judge, wine educator, local government councillor, businessman and promoter, yet far more people know the wine by his name than the remarkable man behind the label. Leo Buring was a visionary of enormous energy, as we shall see.
PHOTO CREDIT: MAX DUPAIN
From the turn of the century through to the sixties, Australia was a cultural wasteland. Few Australians enjoyed good food and wine in those decades unless they travelled overseas. Medical doctors, lawyers and graziers did, and they were about the only ones drinking fine wine back home, supplied by a few merchants in the know.
Most Australians went home to a dinner of meat and three veg, and a bottle of Resch’s Dinner Ale. Unsung Heroes – Wine Men who changed the Way we Live is the story of the wine merchants who introduced us to table wine wine and more interesting food in the late fifties. Leo Buring’s life came to an end just as the new era began: 1961. He was 85.
He was better known as the owner of Wild Oats but Bob Oatley made a huge contribution to the Australian wine business. Rosemount became famous for its big, bold Chardonnays, wines the late Neville Wran waxed lyrical about saying ‘you could drink them by the bucketfull.’ More Here
Huon Hooke said he saw Bob Oatley ‘as a thorough gentleman and a tremendously creative, innovative and energetic asset to the wine industry. From where I stood, he seemed an absolute straight-shooter as a person and in business. When he sold his Southcorp shares to Foster’s, Oatley created shock-waves throughout the wine world, but I’m sure he was acting from sincere motives and years later, he was big enough to admit to some regrets. He said he wished he’d acted differently – without going into details.
‘Oatley was a great Australian, and very patriotic: whether he was promoting wine overseas or sailing his Wild Oats yachts, there was always a sense that he was doing it for his country as much as for himself. When Rosemount merged with Southcorp in a kind of reverse takeover in 2001, he said a key motivation was the desire to keep Southcorp Australian owned. I’m sure he’d have loved to have a crack at the America’s Cup, if only he could buy a second lifetime.’
Would you pay $1.5 billion for a brand, and let it go down the drain?
Global Warming
‘In the Italian Alps, ski stations have had to resort to artificial snow,’ reports phys.org, ‘ cherry blossoms have been spotted in Dresden in Germany, and daffodils are flowering in England.’ Last week, the Royal Dornoch golf range in Scotland reported that the mowers were back out to cut greens in mid December. It was a mild Christmas from Helsinki to Moscow.
London, Christmas 2015
The 2015 harvest in Rioja was one of the hottest ever, reports Huon Hooke. Excess heat produced wines high in alcohol and low in acidity with high pHs. Some wineries will not produce a 2015 Reserva as a result.
Down Under, the Australian Grape and Wine Authority (AGWA) is contemplating making it legal to us the ‘black snake’ (the water hose) more liberally to keep alcohol levels on the right side of sanity. Philip White writes that the pre-Christmas heatwave in South Australia saw some wineries start the 2016 harvest before the end of 2015. As I write this, the Hunter Valley has been hit with flooding rain for days. Who’d want to own a winery down under?
The retail scene is distorted by Woolworths and Coles controlling three quarters of it, and the wine review scene is just as unbalanced. I was surprised when veteran wine writers Huon Hooke and Bob Campbell came out a few weeks ago with their #RealReviews Alliance, in protest of inflated scores from reviewers, kickbacks and Cash for Comment in the wine review business.
By comparison, there isn’t a lot we can criticize Woolworths for. Its Dan Murphy operation is well-run, despite the steady drain of staff who know about their wines. Woolworths knows its customers, I suspect, and most of them just want to buy cheap grog. I mean cheap, and they know what they like as well: $7 bottles of Kiwi savvy and $6 bottles of McGuigan Black Label Merlot.
Why we support the independents
Inflated Scores, Kickbacks and Cash for Comment are Rife in the Wine industry
‘We have formed an alliance to promote and differentiate our approach to wine reviews,’ the two well-known wine reviewers & judges say. ‘We are making a stand for even-handed, transparent, ethical and independent reviewing.’ More Here: #realreviews initiative
They say: ‘Independent opinion in wine has come under pressure from several fronts:
My favourite wine is Australian Riesling, from the Clare and Eden Valleys. Half my cellar is full of them, going back many years.
I’ve said before that I found the 2014s almost universally short on the finish, and the 2015s rich, ripe, round and forward reflecting the hot year. Classic Rieslings from these two areas have long lines of fine acid that keeps the intense, ripe limes in check and ensure a long, clean, dry finish. This backbone also ensures a long life, as green-tinged, zippy, vibrant youth mellows into a more golden tune that rewards you with notes of honey and buttered toast.
Woolworths, Coles and the Fake Wine Label game
Wines of Western Australia chief executive Larry Jorgensen has accused the big supermarket chains of distorting the market, Julie-Anne Sprague writes in The Financial Review. ‘The distortion is that an entire industry is decimated,’ says Jorgensen. ‘Many small businesses are precluded from a reasonable opportunity to trade, the public are [sic] misled as to the true source and nature of the products offered and legitimate traditional businesses and skills are lost.’
Cow Bombie is a famous surfing break near Gracetown in WA’s South West. Picture: Jamie Scott
In another article – Woolworths, Coles private label plonk angers wine industry – Sprague draws a picture of ‘a team of market researchers and brand developers designing dozens of bottles of wine.’ It’s not just designer labels they come up with – for wines called Cow Bombie or Bailey & Baily or Two Churches – they also use sales data from their many stores work out which wine styles are the most popular with punters, and lay down the specs for their suppliers.
I’m always on the lookout for quality wines that don’t cost an arm and a leg, so I look for new ideas in these kinds of lists. There’s the usual sprinkling of wines that aren’t released yet, such as Houghton Crofters Cabernet 2014 and Sandalford Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2014. Others are too obscure even for the Wine Sleuth to find, in this case Chateau Francois Semillon 2012, Madfish Shiraz Pinot Noir Rose 2014 and art by EVOI Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2015.
This is an issue we have with most wine reviewers who simply can’t be bothered to find out if their keen readers can actually get their hands on the wines they recommend. It’s like reading reviews of books you can’t buy or movies you can’t go and see – useless and annoying.
Subscribers often ask me where they can get rich full-flavoured Chardonnay, and I struggle to come up with decent answers. How come, given that we once produced the biggest, richest Chardonnays on the planet?
In the eighties Australians discovered Chardonnay. The variety was new to Australia, and both winemakers and wine lovers went gaga over the exciting new addition to our then tiny selection of varieties. It was a mouth-filling style that could stand up to rich foods – you could describe it as a red wine drinker’s white.
