With Winestate’s World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge 2015 all done and dusted, this week’s topic suggested itself
The results of the challenge are a dog’s breakfast. The winner was the Bird in Hand M.A.C Shiraz 2010 – $350 at Dan M’s. This is the third time this wine has won this challenge, which Publisher of Winestate Peter Simic says is ‘against all odds’ and adds ‘a nice tick to the unbiased consistency of the Winestate judging criteria.’ The third best wine is another $350 touch: Gralyn Estate Margaret River Shiraz Cabernet 2001. More Here.
More interesting for those of us looking for great but affordable wines is that the M.A.C’s more modest sibling came second overall: Bird in Hand Shiraz 2013 – $33 at Dan M’s. The bad news is that it gets just 90 points from Gary Walsh at the Winefront, who has proven himself as the most reliable wine reviewer in Oz.
We sifted through an ocean of results looking for Best Buys, and summed up our notes in Winestate’s World’s Best Shiraz Challenge 2015.
The Best Wines Under $20 Great Shiraz Challenge
I began an older post with this quote from Roger Scruton in a New Statesman column headed ‘Grapes of Wrath’: ‘To force Syrah up to an alcoholic content of 14 per cent or more, tricking it into early maturation so as to put the result on the market with all its liquorice flavours unsubdued, puffing out its dragon breath like an old lecher leaning sideways to put a hairy hand on your knee, is to slander a grape that, properly treated, is the most slow and civilised of seducers.’
It kind of reflects my relationship with Aussie Shiraz, which is best described as tense. I know a lot of people love the rich, plush, seductive style of Shiraz we make in abundance in the Barossa and McLaren Vale, and in Heathcote, so I’ve included a few of these in the list. I prefer the more restrained cool climate styles so I’ve included a few of those as well. I used to like Hunter Shiraz but these days I struggle to find a decent one anywhere near our price range. However, the west is showing itself as a great source of quality Shiraz at bargain prices …
There are many more good Shiraz reds than the ones on our list – it’s merely our shortlist, coloured by our experience. We’ve strayed a little higher than usual in price, but we’ve found plenty of good buys between $10 and $20 too.
Ryder Shiraz 2013 – $10 at Winelistaustralia. Rich, ripe and opulent Clare Valley red at a bargain price, sure to please the crowds at your next barbie.
Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz 2013 – $12 at Dan M’s. Almost on permanent discount at the big chains yet it’s the best of these in years, and it’s a fragrant, classic medium bodied Coonawarra Shiraz.
Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Shiraz 2012 – $13 at Kemenys. Thorn-Clarke is a medium-sized, family-run operation, one of those quiet achievers in the Barossa, not trendy, not flashy but always delivering more than the price suggests. Sandpiper is their basic range. Shiraz is our theme this week, and this one reflects the rich, ripe, cuddly Barossa style. It’s all of those things but it’s classy beyond its station. It’s always good value at its usual $15/$16 street price; at $13 it’s a steal.
McWilliams Mount Pleasant Philip Shiraz 2011 – $13.50 at Jim’s Cellars. It’s tough going finding a good Hunter Shiraz in our price range but this 2011 struck me as a sleeper: light on its feet, deceptive in its elegant restraint, perfect in its easy charm and balance.
Hidden Label McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013 – $14 at Kemenys. This is Gemtree Uncut Shiraz. I found the 2012 a bit over-the-top, an assault on the senses, too much McLaren Vale ripeness and richness. The 2013 scores 94 points with CM at the Winefront who says it’s a ‘joyous McLaren Vale shiraz. Great value, great for winter. A powerhouse of blackberried flavour, slipped thoroughly with smoky oak, with spice, with coffee-cream. Tannin rakes back through the wine, and gorgeously so. Bravo.’
Yalumba Patchwork Shiraz 2013 – $16 at Dan M’s. Another great example of Yalumba’s ability to make elegant reds with plenty of flavour. Lovely tensile energy as well in this blend from several Barossa vineyards. Yalumba hasn’t put a foot wrong lately.
Juniper Estate Juniper Crossing Shiraz 2013 – $16 at Summer Hill Wine Shop. Another winner from this great boutique in the northern Margaret River, demonstrating how well the long neglected Shiraz can perform here, seamlessly combining rich flavours with cool climate elegance.
Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz 2013 – $17 at Winelistaustralia. A bit big for my palate but the quality is undeniable, and the price hard to believe. ‘A monumental bargain,’ says CM at the Winefront. ‘Epic proportions. Grampians Shiraz with help from Heathcote. Ripe fruit. Swish oak. Quality tannin. Extended length. You can’t ask for much more. Plums and cloves, peppers and smoky oak. It’s a superb release. Hands down. No correspondence need be entered into. 95+ points.’
Pepperjack Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 – $17 at Kemenys. Once more with feeling, and Yes it’s the 2012, don’t ask me why it’s not long gone. Hard to beat for this kind of money if you’re looking for a big, rich, solid Barossa Shiraz. Winner of the 2013 Visy Great Shiraz Competition.
Hidden Label Reserve Barossa Shiraz 2013 – $18 at Kemenys. I haven’t worked out what this label hides, all I can tell you is that it’s one of the best Shiraz reds I’ve tasted in a while. The bottle was empty before I got me fair share of it. The fruit leaps out of the glass but there are spices and chocolate and pencil shavings and all kinds of other goodies. Superb integration means you don’t have to wait to enjoy the music.
De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate Shiraz 2012 – $18 at Winelistaustralia. Gold Medal Winner, Canberra, Queensland, Sydney International & Yarra Valley. Cool climate Shiraz. CM at the Winefront says: ‘… it’s all meat and spice, twigs and smoky oak … nuts, bitter shells and all. Generous velvetiness to the mid palate but it gets grainy, herbal, tannic and all manner of things through the finish. Bitterness has been embraced. Great complexity. Peppery after taste. Texture is a key feature. 94+ Points.’
Woods Crampton Shiraz 2014 – $18 at MyCellars. Perfect balance between ripe fruit and savoury notes in the bayleaf and dried herbs spectrum. Surprising finesse for a Barossa red (13.5%).
1960 Gemtree Old Vine Winery Block Shiraz 2013 – $19 at Kemenys The 1960 label celebrates the Kemeny family’s beginnings in a mixed business on Bondi Road with special wines made in small quantities. This McLaren Vale Shiraz will please crowds with its generous, ripe fruit and full flavour. There’s more finesse here than the uncut Gemtree shows, and a lot more charm. It’s a winner.
Pertaringa Undercover Shiraz 2013 – $19 at MyCellars. In 1980, Geoff Hardy left the family company Thomas Hardy & Sons and established Pertaring in the foothills behind McLaren Vale, where the summer heat is tempered by sea breezes off the St Vincent’s Gulf. Comes across as a typical, impenetrable Macca Shiraz at first but reveals itself as a beautifully judged red of great balance between intense fruit and refreshing acidity.
Sidewood Estate Shiraz 2013 – $19 at MyCellars. Hits that wonderful combination the Adelaide Hills can produce: rich, ripe fruits with cool climate pepper and spice. 4 golds so far.
Bellevue Estate Shiraz 2013 – $19 at MyCellars. Corey Vandeleur has done it again and won the Edinburgh Hotel Shiraz Challenge – the popular vote. It’s so rich and ripe it’s almost jammy but clearly the crowds love the style. (Use promo code BWU20 to get free freight on any number of bottles. MyCellars only has one price, so there’s no penalty for ordering2 or 3 bottles).
Rosily Shiraz 2010 – $23 at the winery. From our favourite Dark Horse winery in the west comes a Shiraz that laughs at some of its clumsy relatives from South Australia. 5 years old and mellowing yet the colour doesn’t show it. The nose combines berry fruit and cool-climate pepper, and the velvety palate offers dark berries wrapped in very fine French oak. The polished tannins on the finish provide a perfect ending for this story. Benchmark Shiraz for a pittance.
Tatiarra Culled Barrel Shiraz 2013 – $20 at Nicks / Vintage Direct. Immense red from Heathcote from a hot, dry year, not for the fainthearted.
Head Red Shiraz 2013 – $22 at MyCellars. Alex Head walks the fine line between ripe, seductive fruit and disciplined restraint. Gary Walsh calls this ‘Pitch perfect Barossa Shiraz.’ A perfect description.
Crabtree Watervale Shiraz 2013 – $22 at MyCellars. A refined kind of Shiraz, handmade in small quantities by Kerri Thompson (KT). Shows the quality of Watervale Shiraz, gorgeous dark fruit with a pinch of pepper and some smoky oak, the strong but fine tannin finish suggests it will improve for years.
Bellarmine Pemberton Shiraz 2010 – $25 at Kemenys. Another 5-year-old Shiraz from the west, from a great little boutique at Pemberton in the Great Southern. Generous and classy.
Kalleske Moppa Shiraz 2013 – $26 at Dan M’s. They add 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Viognier to this rich, plush and soft Barossa red. It’s big on flavour, and I mean BIG.
Moombaki Shiraz 2010 – $26 at MyCellars. Gorgeous, rich Shiraz from a tiny organic winery near Denmark, made by James Kellie at Harewood Estate. It’s a blend of estate grown and Frankland River fruit.
Hentley Farm Shiraz 2014 – $26 at Summer Hill Wine Shop. Rich, soft fruit, wonderful array of ripe berries. Utterly seductive.
Cape Mentelle Shiraz 2012 – $30 at MyCellars. Ray Jordan nails it in his review: ‘Positively stunning shiraz from this great Margaret River producer. Deep and powerful, yet with remarkable elegance and style. Spices and blackberry on the nose with a little blueberry and chocolate nuance. The palate has a sinewy thread holding the oak and tannin around the intense driving fruit flavours. An engaging savoury finish. All class.’ – 97 Points.
Kim