I’m always on the lookout for quality wines that don’t cost an arm and a leg, so I look for new ideas in these kinds of lists. There’s the usual sprinkling of wines that aren’t released yet, such as Houghton Crofters Cabernet 2014 and Sandalford Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2014. Others are too obscure even for the Wine Sleuth to find, in this case Chateau Francois Semillon 2012, Madfish Shiraz Pinot Noir Rose 2014 and art by EVOI Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2015.
This is an issue we have with most wine reviewers who simply can’t be bothered to find out if their keen readers can actually get their hands on the wines they recommend. It’s like reading reviews of books you can’t buy or movies you can’t go and see – useless and annoying.
Anyhow, I’ve gone through JH’s Best Under $20 whites and reds in the Weekend Australian Magazine (Nov 21-22), and the first thing I noticed is that he (or his helpers) is using street prices, not RRP. Good to see wine legends like James following our lead. I’ve pulled out those wines that are known to us, and provide some hopefully helpful comments.
Castelli Estate the Sum Riesling 2015 – 94 points – $13 at MyCellar. I was looking forward to this affordable Great Southern Riesling from Rob Diletti, Halliday’s winemaker of the year 2014, and the review made my mouth water: ‘The fragrant, floral bouquet is enticing,’ says James, ‘but the impact of the palate comes as a surprise; it surges with a bow wave of citrus and passionfruit that overflows with flavour. It has the acidity to provide balance and length, and puts a large ‘must buy’ placard around the neck of the bottle.’
Yes, there’s a lot of fruit here – pretty ripe passionfruit mostly – but not enough acid to keep the wine in balance. The finish is short as well, so what we end up with is a commercial Riesling of no real merit and no great future. It’s in the glass in front of me, and it’s an 86 point wine at best.
Bleasdale Pinot Gris 2015 – 94 points – $15 at Winelistaustralia. I found this wine disappointing and pretty dull drinking after the great 2013 and 2014s. 90 points at a stretch.
Tahbilk Marsanne 2015 – 95 points – $12.40 at Dan M’s. A long time favourite, but the 2015 has missed the boat with forward fruit, a bland mid palate and a finish that lacks the usual fine acid backbone. About 88 points in my book. The 2014 is much better if you can find it, and Langton’s have the 2009 for $17 a bottle.
De Iuliis Semillon 2015 – 95 points – $17 at Kemenys. The 2014 was a beauty, and it looks like the 2015 follows in its footsteps. Steve at QWine calls it Ripping Value and the Winefront’s Mike Bennie likes it for 93 points. You can still get the brilliant 2014 at Wineselectors for $18 or $15 in a dozen.
Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Cellar Aged Semillon 2007 – 96/100 $16 at Kemenys. As I keep telling you, you can buy this wine for $4 less under a Hidden Label, which makes it look like an enormous bargain given the 10 gold medals and 95 points from Huon Hooke. I’ve tasted this wine several times over the last 12 months, and I remain unconvinced. Yes, the wine shows aged Hunter characters in the McWilliams wet dog / damp straw spectrum, but it finishes short and lacks line and length. Great bargain if you don’t care about these things.
Alkoomi Semillion Sauvignon Blanc 2015 – 92 points – $13 at Kemenys. Don’t know it, but they don’t make a bad wine over there so it’s worth trying.
Stella Bella Skuttlebutt Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2015 – 94 points – $15 at Kemenys. Don’t know the wine but it should be a good one given the vineyard’s reputation. The Skuttlebutt label usually offers great value.
Watershed Shades Sauvignon Semillon 2014 – 94 points – $12 at jackswine. I thought this SSB was a bit flat, lacking depth and crunchy acidity, but I’m probably too picky given the price.
O’Leary Walker The Lucky Punter Sauvignon Blanc 2015 – 94 points – $16 at Kemenys. This wine surprised me with its vitality and crunchy crispness, and I gave it 91 points. It’s pretty good but there are better savvies at this price point.
Mike Press Sauvignon Blanc 2015 – 94 points – $11 at MyCellars. I’m not a great fan of the Press’s wines, but other reviewers and wine lovers are. If you are among them, this is clearly a bargain.
Hoddles Creek Estate Chardonnay 2014 – 95 points – $20 at Winesellersdirect. It’s time to make a confession. I’ve been a fan of Franco d’Anna’s Yarra Valley Estate range for a few years now, but the 2014s – this chardy and the Wickham’s Road – disappointed me with their lack of flavour and depth. Halliday talks about phenomenal power and drive, so either I tasted a bad bottle or JH tasted a different wine.
Older Chardies under this label have also been disappointing, with some off (petrol) odours and inconsistent quality the main problems. That said, this label has many fans among reviewers.
De Iuliis Chardonnay 2014 – 94 points – $17 at Kemenys. Despite fermentation in French oak, I didn’t think the chardy was in the same class as the Semillon of that year, but it may have just needed extra time (I tasted it more than 6 months ago).
Turkey Flat Rose 2015 – 94 points – $19 at MyCellars. Another long time favourite, no quibbles.
Wolf Blass Red Label Shiraz Grenache 2014 – 89 points – $8.50 at Jim’s Cellars. An easy-on-the-gums drink-now-proposition on paper, but recent examples have been ghastly concoctions despite gold medals and good reviews. Maybe this one is better, but 89 is a pretty ordinary score from the generous James so try before you buy
Trentham Estate Pinot Noir 2014 – 93 points – $12 at Wineonline. These tend to be light, soft and simple Pinot Noirs which score in the high eighties. Haven’t tried the 2014 but Ralph Kyte-Powell at The AGE gives it 88 points.
Xanadu Next of Kin Cabernet Sauvignon 2013– 95 points – $15 at MyCellars. This wine is always good value, but closer to 90 points in my view. Gary at the WineFront gives it 91. You can still buy the slightly bigger (14.5% vs 14%) 2012 at MyCellars for $15, and remember: BWU$20 subscribers get free delivery on any quantity, promo code BWU20.
D’Arenberg Custodian Grenache 2012 – $16 at Winelistaustralia. I’ve sung the praises of this wine for a while now so it’s good to see JH calling it a ‘drop-dead bargain’, and Huon Hooke describing it as a ‘full-flavoured red with abundant character at a paltry price … with density and grip way above its station.’ I think I gave it 93+ points because it has plenty left in the tank for the future.
Woods Crampton Old Vine Shiraz 2014 – $18 at MyCellars. These guys make my kind of Shiraz: a medium-bodied red of some finesse, fragrant, peppery, spicy. Haven’t tried this year but Gary at the WF gives it 94 points and a great wrap, very sharp price.
Wirra Wirra Church Block 2013 – $16 at Dan M’s (today) or $18 at at Kemenys. This was a recent wine of the week for us and we agree with JH’s score of 94 points. ‘… really over-delivers … chock full of red and black fruits, good shape and texture …’
HEAD Nouveau Touriga Montepulciano 2014 – 94 points at Different Drop. I loved the 2013 as a lighter drink now style with serious charm and attitude, but the highly reliable Andrew Graham scores the 2014 at just 85 points. Gary at the WF gives it 91 points, so best try it first.
Brown Brothers Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier NV – 94 points – $18 at Winelistaustralia. This used to be a favourite good value bubbly but BB have notched the price up a bit. We found it for $18, which still makes it a good choice.
Dominique Portet Brut Sparkling Rosé NV – 94 points – $27 at auscellardoor. Boutique Yarra Valley territory, gets a great review from Jeni Port as well. Should be interesting.
Kim